From the Ancient to the Baroque

Monday, May 2, 2016 -- Siracusa and Noto

After an abundant (enough to feed us for a week) breakfast at the home of our hostess, Paola, we headed to Syracuse -- Siracusa in these parts. Siracusa's power once rivaled that of Athens, and it was considered to be the most beautiful city of the ancient world.

Our first stop was the archeological park to see a Greek theater, an altar used to sacrifice 450 bulls -- at once! -- deep quarries now lushly wooded, and a Roman amphitheater.  The theater, dates from the 5th century BC and work crews were busy preparing the stage and building wooden bench seating to cover the original stone tiers in preparation for the annual festival of Greek theater.  Each year, 21st-century audiences enjoy productions of  classical works by Aeschylus, whose first runs were performed right here -- in his presence!  The Romans eventually overtook Siracusa and their amphitheater is 700 years  younger, and was used for gladiatorial games -- another popular entertainment in the ancient world.

Ortygia Island was the heart of ancient Siracusa, but was eventually transformed into a Baroque masterpiece.

 The duomo, is built atop and incorporates elements of the Greek temple to Athena it was before being converted into a church when St. Paul was evangelizing on the island.  Columns from the 5th century BC are visible inside the church, and on the exterior walls.

The Piazza Duomo is one of the most beautiful squares we've seen anywhere.  The warm hues of the baroque facades, the terrazzo paving stones, and the wide expanse all combine to create a space that seems right out of a movie set.

Just around the corner from the cathedral, we visited the underground excavations of an Ionic temple before having lunch in a square overlooking a 6th-century BC Doric temple honoring Apollo.

Then it was on to Noto, an ancient city that was almost totally destroyed in an earthquake in 1693.  It was rebuilt in the Baroque style popular in the following century and the result is a harmonious honey-hued center city  -- just beautiful!  We enjoyed wandering the streets as they climbed up and down a steep hill.  The duomo and many of the (many) churches are set high above street level and are fronted by wide sets of broad steps.  Noto is another perfect movie set, overlooking a green valley below.

We returned to the 21st century via autostrada, a stop at a huge supermarket, and rush hour traffic in Catania.