This was the last day of our five-week Italian road trip, we planned to take advantage of a walking tour in hopes of learning some things about Milan we'd missed before. (Like everything else in Milan, the walking tours were not available yesterday, a Monday.) We met our guide, Marco, and more than 50 other fellow walkers in Piazza del Duomo and began a fast-paced walk though some of Milan's history, neighborhoods, and important figures. Marco was an energetic teacher, who acted, sang, emoted, and entertained our motley international crew for several hours.
His commentary on the duomo was divided into three segments, as we stood in as many different places in the church's shadow. The cathedral, originally a bid by the Visconti family for power, recognition, and political legitimacy, took six centuries to complete; its construction slowed by changes in geopolitical fortunes. Despite the fits and starts, it has been a source of pride since it was begun in the 14th century; until about 50 years ago, it was illegal for any building in Milan to be taller than the duomo's crowning spire. That spire is topped by a golden statue of Mary, which is affectionately known as the Madronina. There is great reverence for the Blessed Mother in Milan and throughout Lombardy; many churches are dedicated to her, and Maria is a commonly used middle name -- for men!
After the duomo square, we were off to the church of St. Nazaro, originally built by the patron saint of Milan, Ambrose, in the 4th century, before the fall of the Roman Empire. Near the church is the University of Milan, whose campus occupies the site of a 16th century hospital begun by one of the Sforza dukes in an effort to modernize primitive medical practices; the original entry leads to a large grassy courtyard, ringed by arcaded porticoes. Across the courtyard, we could see a few laurel-wreathed graduates celebrating with family and friends.
Next up, we headed to the church of St. Bernardino alle Ossa to see a separate chapel there which is decorated with the skulls and bones exhumed from the nearby mass grave adjacent to a medieval hospital.
Back in Piazza del Duomo, we headed to the Galleria, which was originally built, not as a shopping center, but as a monument celebrating the unification of Italy. When it was completed in 1867, the huge space and soaring dome were lit by gas lamps. We were fascinated by Marco's description of the coiled spring-powered contraption, the "little mouse" that traveled on a track to light the lamps at base of the dome each evening at sunset.
In the Piazza della Scala, we were amazed to learn that the famed opera house began its life in the 18th century as a casino, funded by the city's aristocracy. Musical performances were secondary to the gambling and games of chance which took place in the lobby, but were only allowed DURING performances! It was not until the next century, when the works of Verdi, Rossini, Bellini and Donizetti were performed, that opera became the theater's focus.
We finished the tour at two sites, separated by a few blocks and many centuries, both dedicated to commerce. The Piazza dei Mercanti was the large enclosed space that was the center of trade and business transactions during the Middle Ages; the roads from each of the six city gates led directly to the square. Last stop was Italy's only stock exchange, Milan's Bourse, which faces a square where Maurizio Cattelan's 2011 sculpture, The Finger, makes a pretty clear statement about capitalism...
On that note, we bade farewell to Marco and wandered a bit on our own, stopping at a food emporium that makes Eataly look like a bargain basement. We understand that Peck's offers 3200 different types of Parmigiano Reggiano -- we didn't see them all --but we did see saffron going for 19,500 euros a kilo!
One more stroll around the duomo, and we had to bid Milan farewell. We took the Metro back to our car near the apartment, then headed for the airport, where we returned it to the rental company -- no estimate yet on damages. We're in an airport hotel tonight, before our morning flight to JFK, and then on to Phoenix.
It's been a great five weeks in a country we love and discover anew each time we visit, but it's time to pack up the memories and head for home. Right now, that seems like the best destination of all!
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