Milan

Monday, May 23, 2016

Though the day-long deluge some forecasters had promised didn't materialize,  we did spend the day looking at the sky, and planning our moves according to what we saw there.  Our umbrellas got some use, but we also found ourselves peeling off our jackets when the sun's warmth called for that.  Most of the city's museums are closed on Mondays, so we'd planned to wander a bit, and flexibility was easy, especially with two-day passes for the transit system.

When we boarded the Metro around the corner from our apartment, the skies were threatening, so we decided to head for the Navigli, an area of the city threaded with canals, before it started to rain.  By the time we arrived, it was pouring, so we just got back on the train and headed to Piazza Duomo, where we knew we could keep relatively dry as we visited the cathedral, the adjacent arcaded sidewalks, and the Galleria.

Of course, the rain had let up by the time we arrived, and Tom was able to try his hand at photographing reflections of the duomo's ornate facade in the puddles.  Even under a dark blanket of clouds, the cathedral facade is just glorious -- a confection of innumerable statues and filigree in white and palest pink marble.  The piazza was a busy place this morning, with tourists, shoppers, a wedding party, and workmen preparing screens, booths, shops, and displays for the UEFA soccer tournament being held here this weekend. We were aware of a significant police/military presence in and around the piazza and elsewhere in Milan today.

In contrast to the scene in the square, once we entered through the Holy Door (separate from the long tourists' line, though entering there did not exempt us from a search by the military types who were stationed at all the doors), we were pretty much on our own. The interior of the church is a vast, soaring space, warmed by light entering through many beautiful stained glass windows. (Because we were inside on the pilgrims' itinerary, Tom has no photos.) It's possible to climb a stairway (or ride an elevator part way) to the roof, which we did on a previous trip, but not today.  (I'll say that was because of the rumble of thunder today, but in fact, it was really the creaking of our joints!)  If you get to Milan (while you're young!), do go up; wandering among the statues, towers, and buttresses is an unforgettable experience.

One of the discount stores in the Mall

The enormous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II might be considered the shoppers' answer to the duomo, its neighbor on the piazza.  The four-story double arcade houses a branch of many of Italy's high-end fashion houses; we did notice that the McDonald's that formerly occupied a prime location at the nexus of the four branches of the arcade has been relegated to a spot across the street.  It's a great place to window shop, gape at the insane price tags, and -- keep out of the downpour just outside its portals.

Once the rain let up, we headed back to check out the Navigli, which we found pretty unexciting, and the nearby covered market, which was small for a city this size.  In any case, by the time we got there, most of the vendors had already closed their stalls for the day.  After lunch along a canal, we took a tram and the Metro back to the duomo, for some full-sun photos.

It was starting to get quite warm as we walked up the pedestrianized Via Dante to the Castello Sforzesco.  Via Dante was also in the midst of preparations for soccer-related events, and the piazza just in front of the castle was set up with exhibition space for a design show -- also closed on Mondays.  We sat alongside the fountain in front of the castle for a bit and watched the passing scene, which included a couple of men who zoomed by on what I can only describe as one-third of a Segway -- a motorized tire, no shaft or handlebars, but great balance!
 

The castle was originally built in the 15th century by the Sforza Dukes of Milan.  Enlarged subsequently, it became one of Europe's largest fortifications.  Today, the massive complex houses several of the city's museums -- all of which were closed today -- and lovely courtyards and gardens, which were open.

We took the historic Tram #1 from the castle through some of the old city, then a Metro for a stop to check out nirvana for foodies with funds -- the Milan branch of Eataly, a shiny glass emporium on a piazza with a monumental arch in a part of town with glittering skyscrapers and apartment buildings to match.

And with that, we punched our Metro tickets one more time and headed for home.