On the suggestion of our hostess, Paola, our first stop was the coastal town of Forza D'Agro, whose position very high on a mountain top afforded wonderful views of the sea, beaches, and nearby towns below, including Taormina. We parked near the summit and walked around a bit, visited a 15th century convent, and took advantage of a couple of good photo ops, though the sky was dark with clouds. We did not, however, get as high as the castle; the streets were too narrow (for us) to drive, and even from the parking lot, there was too much of a climb remaining to interest us.
Down one mountain and on to Taormina, which is perched only part way up the side of another, though the switchback road to the parking garage was plenty challenging, with several hairpin turns. The fact that we were parked in a large seven-level parking garage (one of many parking lots surrounding the town) was a pretty obvious giveaway that we would not be alone in Taormina! Visitors by the busload wander the pedestrian main street, which is lined with shops offering high end goods and tourist trinkets. Restaurants and cafes line piazzas and the narrow side lanes that climb or descend the steep hill off the main drag. The scene reminded us of Tuscany's San Gimignano, which is so overrun with day visitors that much of its charm is lost.
The chief cultural draw in Taormina is the Greek Theater, dramatically situated on its own promontory, with views to the sea, town, and mountains. Dating from the 3rd century BC, it still hosts summer arts festivals and performances -- a concept of durability that seems alien to entertainment impresarios and sports teams in the 21st century!
Today's final visit was to the highest town yet. Castelmola looms HIGH above Taormina, and bears the official designation of "One of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy" -- yes, there is such a thing! Its approach road has the requisite number of switchbacks and narrow turns, but they were childsplay compared to the hiking path from Taormina! Like seemingly every hilltop town around here, Castlemola has a castle, many churches, lovely narrow streets, and plenty of spots offering wonderful views in every direction, including up and down. The dark clouds around Mt. Etna had cleared and the snow-capped summit gleamed this afternoon.
With that, it was time to head back to sea level and home for dinner.
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